Day 9: Naples to Bari

We found Vesuvius! I spent about 2 hours last night checking websites until I found one that described the route (turn by turn) and Googled mapped it as well. We have a GPS, but without an exact address or a preprogrammed location, it's only moderately helpful. Vesuvius was pretty impressive -- and the view was amazing. We were able to drive most of the way up, but then climbed about a mile. Next, we went to Pompeii. We had no idea how large the city was (12,000 people) or how prosperous and "modern" the people were. Then, we drove to Bari. We'll be turning in our trusty "Fiat" that we've enjoyed driving from Munich to Bari and boarding a ferry that leaves at 8 pm for Greece. We have our own room on the ferry (which takes about 16 hours to get to Patras), but I probably won't have an internet connection, so I probably won't be able to make a blog entry tomorrow. Picture 1: A view of Vesuvius from below; Picture 2: A view from the top of Vesuvius; Picture 3: A view down into Vesuvius; Picture 4: A view of Vesuvius from Pompeii.

Day 8: Naples to Naples

Tonight we're in Naples again -- the first time we've spent 2 nights in the same place. We took the opportunity to sleep in a bit. Our plan was to climb Mount Vesuvius and go to Pompeii today, then drive the Amalfi coast tomorrow. Well, we didn't realize that there are several roads that go part-way up Vesuvius, but only one leads to the hiking trail. After driving halfway up the volcano on the wrong road and driving around trying to find the right road, we decided to drive the Amalfi coast today. We drove as far as Positano and got some great pictures, but the steep inclines, the hairpin turns, and the fearless Italian drivers whizzing by, were making me nervous (even more nervous than Alice), so we returned early (7:30 pm) to our hotel. Ahhh, air conditioning. After cooling off, we walked to our new favorite restaurant around the corner. Last night, we shared the best pizza ever. Tonight, we shared the same kind of pizza as well as a local ziti/ragu dish. The ragu was heavenly -- I think the "Ragu" company in America ought to be ashamed to use that name. Picture 1: Mount Vesuvius from across the Bay of Naples; Pictures 2, 3, and 4: The Italian coast between Naples and Positano.

Day 7: Rome to Naples

Today we visited the coliseum. We saw it 10 years ago, but, because it was closed when we got there, we didn't get to go inside. This time, however, we not only went inside, we had a tour guide tell us the whole story. Next, we went Anzio -- where the Allied landing took place in January of 1944. We visited the cemetery (which is very nice), the museum (which obviously operates on a small budget), and the beach (which is beautiful). Then, we drove to Naples. Naples is said to be the most densely populated city in Europe -- and we believe it. What we call a "one-way street" in America is a "two-way street" in Italy -- and they often squeeze 3 to 4 lanes of traffic onto it. What they call a "one-way street" in Italy is a major thoroughfare in Naples. But the pizza has no equal. I think they invented pizza here -- but they REALLY know how to do it right! Picture 1: Inside the Coliseum; Picture 2: Anzio Cemetery; Picture 3: Storming the beach at Anzio; Picture 4: A beautiful view (and the beach is nice, too). [P.S. Our WiFi internet carrier was down for maintenance last night.]

Day 6: Siena to Rome

I was really excited to see Siena because it is a beautiful little hill town with a rich history -- but, it seems that thousands of others had the same idea. There were scores of tour buses and hordes of tourists. People were parked in every nook and cranny of every parking lot, roadside, and alleyway in town. After driving around the town 3 times looking for a place to park, we left -- and took a great picture from a couple of miles away. But the day got better from there. We drove to Genzano di Roma -- a teeny little town that has a unique 2-day celebration every year. They allow artists to make murals with flowers and "flower parts" all the way up the main street to the church. Next, we drove to Rome and spent the evening at Piazza Navona -- one of Alice's favorite places on earth -- where we had a leisurely anniversary dinner (paid for by my parents) and watched the artists, singers, and fountains until 11 pm. Then, we topped it off with the best gelato (ice cream) in the world -- at the corner of the plaza. Picture 1: Siena from a gas station outside of town; Picture 2: "Infiorata" (Flower Festival) in Genzano di Roma; Picture 3: My favorite mural; Picture 4: My favorite traveling companion -- on our 37th wedding anniversary.

Day 5: Bologna to Siena

Today, we spent more time in Catholic churches than we did in the Mormon Church -- not by choice, however. When we arrived at church this morning, they were having the closing prayer. We assumed it was the closing prayer for Sunday School, but then everyone started leaving. We asked one missionary if sacrament meeting was about to start and he said, "It just ended." Another missionary said, "Oh, does the church website still say 11:50?" Well, yes it does, but apparently it should say 10:50. So, we took a Sunday stroll through the Catholic Basilica in Bologna. Then, I took a Sunday stroll up 498 steps of the town tower while Alice waited in an air-conditioned McDonalds. Next, we took a Sunday drive to Ravenna and visited a Catholic Basilica built in the 6th century by the Byzantines. It has some fantastic mosaics that survived all these years. Then, we took a Sunday drive to Siena, where we are staying tonight. By the way, I did have bologna (mortadella) in Bologna -- for breakfast this morning. Picture 1: Basilica di San Petronio in Bologna (it was started in 1390 and the Bolognese were planning to make it bigger than St. Peter's in Rome, so the Pope diverted the funds and built the building on the left -- so the bottom is beautiful marble and the top is ugly brick); Picture 2: The 12th century tower on the left tilted during an earthquake, so the Bolognese built a taller one (which I climbed); Picture 3: Basilica San Vitale in Ravenna (the mural is all done in mosaics); Picture 4: An example of the mosaics on the floor.

Day 4: Padova to Bologna

Today, we went to Basilica di Sant'Antonio in Padova. We went inside, but I couldn't take any pictures because there was a mass going on. Then we went to the "Daily Market" for Alice to do a little shopping. Next, we drove down the coast from Chioggia to the Pomposa Abbey. The abbey was built in 1026 -- with beautiful mosaics on the floor -- and the tower was built in 1063. From there, we drove to Bologna -- where we'll be going to church tomorrow. Bologna is famous for two things: one is tortellini (they invented it) and the other is bologna (except they call it "mortadella"). Tonight, I had tortellini so incredible that it, alone, was worth the plane fare. Alice had a pizza that was infinitely better than American pizza. Tomorrow, we'll sample "real" bologna. Picture 1: Basilica di Sant'Antonio; Picture 2: The "Daily Market" with the law courts in the background and a fountain and bicycles in the foreground (most of the streets downtown are so narrow that ONE EUROPEAN car can barely get down them, so many people ride bikes or scooters); Picture 3: Pomposa Abbey; Picture 4: The "postcard" view of Pomposa Abbey.

Day 3: Graz to Padova

Today, I climbed Graz' castle hill to the famous clock tower. Alice climbed most of the way, then waited in the shade on a park bench. Next, we went to the Piber Stud Farm, outside Graz, where they breed the famous Lipizzaner horses. Alice is missing her horses, but this helped. I had my last schnizel for the trip at the Piber Cafe. (Austrian schnizel is just as good as German schnizel.) Then, we drove to Padova, Italy and are staying at Ibis again. Picture 1: Looking down on the clock tower and Graz; Picture 2: The Piber Stud Farm is built around a 1696 castle; Picture 3: Alice got to pet some Lipizzaner foals; Picture 4: She also pet the mares.